The talks was, as they always are, very insightful and I have several discoveries I want to share with our readers. So many, that I’ve struggled to choose where to start. But I have to start everyplace, and so it’s going to be by introducing you, my friends, to a gorgeous gem from Austria called blaufränkisch.
Blaufränkisch is a red wine variety found in central Europe and is particularly vital in Austria, where it’s the second most-planted red grape variety. Zweigelt is more planted in Austria, but to many vintners blaufränkisch is more vital. It can be found throughout Burgenland, where this variety is
I call blaufränkisch a gem, because it is truly gorgeous. It’s not just the deep red affect that makes it gorgeous, but the complex sharp taste, luscious fruit flavors, outstanding organize and earthy mineral notes. While younger blaufränkisch is certainly approachable, nearly each one I tasted had the organize for at least a few years of aging — and the few aged examples I was able to taste were phenomenal. This isn’t a wine I’ll be tucking away for 25 years, but a few years will be excellent.
If you’re a name who likes to bring a different wine to a party to wow your friends, this is one type of wine you may want to check out. Unfortunately, blaufränkisch is a wine that I haven’t come across at very
The most impressive blaufränkisch I tasted came from three different DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) regions: Eisenberg, Mittelburgenland and Leithaberg. Each of these regions have a DAC system to classify those wines that best represent the fruit and spice qualities that winemakers in the area have agreed to be varietally right.
For Eisenberg DAC and Mittelburgenland DAC there is both a “classic” and a “reserve” DAC classification. Classic wines from both DACs are available to consumers in the fall the year following the harvest and have small-to-no noticeable oak and an alcohol level between 12.5 – 13%. Classic wines tend to be a small less expensive—although, arguably, less elegant—than those with the Reserve classification. Reserve wines are available in Development the second year following the harvest, are aged in large
Mittelburgenland also has a DAC Riede classification, which are sourced from a single vineyard, and labeled with that vineyard. Mittleburgenland DAC Riede is must have an alcohol level between 13 -13.5% and must be matured in large oak casks or used barriques — but may only exhibit set alight oak characteristics. These wines may be released to consumers October 1 following the year of harvest.
For Leithaberg DAC there is only one level to the DAC classification and these wines are released to consumers in the fall of the second year following the harvest, but they have small or no use of oak.
I did notice what I perceived as an apprehension to use oak throughout Burgenland. But as I explored this a small further I learned that this is really a correction from an overzealous use of oak in years past. The pendulum is currently swinging away from oak in Austria as winemakers are seeking to produce more
Even though our readers in the US may have a hard time finding these wines, I want to share some of my top picks from this trip to Austria. Those readers located in Europe will probably have better luck finding these wines. Due to limited time at these tastings, I did not do my predictable ratings but rather captured tasting notes of those that stood out. Here are the highlights of what I tasted.
The Eisenberg DAC is the southernmost DAC province in Burgenland, or more specifically, in Südburgenland (South Burgenland). The best value will be found from wines with the classic DAC designation. These are younger, more fruit-forward wines but subdue have the mineral and spice characteristics for which blaufränkisch is known. A link wines with this classification
Weinbau Jalits 2009 Blaufränkisch Eisenberg – The nose is very spicy and floral. On the palate it’s all about red berry flavors and tannins that are nearly chewy. The end is long and filled with fruit and spice.
Weingut Poller 2009 Blaufränkisch Eisenberg – The affect is a deep, deep purple. Lively fruit aromas erupt from this wine. The fruit is a small more restrained on the palate, but nice. Strawberry and apple peel flavors stand out. The acidity and tannins are both spot on.
The Eisenberg DAC Reserve wines are aged for at least two years in oak. These wines are generally more expensive than their classic brethren, but I found a link value-priced examples worth noting.
Weingut Rennhofer 2008 Blaufränkisch Eisenberg Reserve – This is a very well balanced and approachable wine with cherry and iron notes. The end is nice and spicy.
Weingut Poller “Kokomandl” 2008 Blaufränkisch Eisenberg Reserve – With fresh blueberry and cinnamon aromas, this made me reckon
OK, this may be a small confusing but bear with me. You can generally reckon of Mittelburgenland as a province (i.e. middle Burgenland), but technically it’s a classification. Wines produced in this area have to be submitted (and approved) for DAC status in order to market them as “Mittelburgenland” wine. But there are wines produced in this province, and sold without the Mittelburgenland name. The first wine from this province I want to tell you about is one such wine.
Hans Igler 2007 C4 Blaufränkisch – Hands down, this was my favorite blaufränkisch that I tasted throughout Burgenland, and ironically it doesn’t have a DAC classification. The nose has incredible intensity, with aromas of licorice, tar, caramel, red currant and mineral. The palate is equally outstanding, with herbal dark berry flavors and black licorice with exceptional concentration. It has fantastic organize and could easily
There was one wine I tasted with the Mittelburgenland DAC Classic designation that caught my attention:
Weinbau Reinfeld 2008 Mittelburgenland DAC Classic – Red is the theme with this wine. Deep red affect. Red currant aromas on the nose. Cherry and raspberry flavors with excellent concentration. The tannins and acidity are spot on. The end brings spicy fruit and mineral.
In the Mittelburgenland DAC Riede classification, there were a number of wines that caught my fancy. But this is where I wish I had time to photograph each bottle that I tasted because in my post-tasting research I’m having a hard time identifying these particular wines. You see, the Mittelburgenland DAC Riede classification includes a specific vineyard in the name of the wine, and those locations weren’t listed on the tasting sheet I was provided. As I look up the specific vineyards for the wine that I liked I’m finding that some of the producers have multiple wines with
Hans Igler 2008 Blaufränkisch Hochberg Mittelburgenland DAC – Medium red in affect, this blaufränkisch has spicy aromas with allspice, soft red fruit and a slightly smoky quality. The palate is brought to life by a bright acidity and flavors of rhubarb and raspberry. The tannins are perfect. The end is shows soft red fruit flavors and mineral.
Weingut Hufnagel Blaufränkisch 2008 Mittelburgenland DAC Riede Neuberg - This wine has a deep purple affect. It’s lively on the nose with sharp spice and smoke aromas. It’s very well balanced and has both red and darker fruit on the palate. It’s slightly tannic on the end, but subdue a very nice wine.
As I already mentioned, with the Leithaberg DAC there is not a classic or reserve designation but only one set of DAC standards for red wine. There are a few colorless
Hofbauer 2008 Leithaberg DAC Blaufränkisch - The jewel-red affect of this wine is gorgeous in the glass. The nose is filled with lively, fresh fruit aromas, mineral and nutmeg. It tastes like a set alight raspberry sauce with a touch of nutmeg. It’s very approachable up front and spicy on the end, with a lingering ripe raspberry flavor. This is an exceptional wine.
Birgit Braunstein 2008 Leithaberg DAC Blaufränkisch - This set alight red wine is not one that I would tuck away in the cellar, but is perfect for enjoying immediately. The nose is filled with fresh red berry and set alight spice, while the palate has black cherry and strawberry flavors. The acidity makes it
Wagentristl 2008 Leithaberg DAC Blaufränkisch - The nose on this blaufränkisch is a small forceful, but has an fascinating herbal quality, it’s somewhat mint-like. There’s also some plum on the nose. In the mouth it has blueberry flavors with heavy tannins. It finishes with iron and berry flavors. I expect this would be a excellent bottle to age a few years and will be even more fascinating then.
Weingut Welkovits – 2008 Leithaberg DAC Blaufränkisch – This wine is bursting with nutmeg, cherry and floral black pepper aromas. It has really nice fruit flavors, like raspberry and cherry. Some nutmeg and mineral flavors add complexity to the palate. It finishes with plenty of spicy black pepper and mineral.
One additional wine that I loved from the Neusiedlersee-Hügelland province, but is not classified as Leithaberg DAC, also came from Welkovits. This is a small, family winery with very limited distribution. I highly doubt you’ll find this anywhere in the US at the time
Weingut Welkovits 2008 Blaufränkisch Selektion “Johannes” – Deep red in affect, this wine has a ton of complexity and loads of fruit. On the nose it has soft blueberry, strawberry, cherry, black pepper and nutmeg. A hint of oak is also detectable. The palate is full and fruity with blueberry and wild cherry spiced with nutmeg. It has crisp acidity and excellent overall organize. It finishes with black pepper and cherry flavors.
Thanks to Julia Sevenich for clarifying the Mittelburgenland DAC specifications for me. Be sure to read her stuff at julia7ich.com.
While I did pay to attend the talks and paid for my own travel expenses, there are sponsors to the event that add significant value to the event. Some of those sponsors took me, and a number of additional attendees, on a two-day press junket to Burgenland after the talks. The wits I’m telling you that is
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