Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon has said he expects more Champagne growers and winemakers to shift to organic and biodynamic methods, because of the benefits in the vineyard and in the glass.
Grapes from biodynamic vineyards help Champagne to express a sense of place, Lecaillon told a masterclass audience at the recent Decanter Fine Wine Encounter in London. Certified organic vineyards only represent around 1% of Champagne-producing vines, according to the local organic growers' union, while facts on biodynamic farming in the province are hard to obtain. Part of the wits for that relatively small figure may be that the regional trade body, Comite Champagne, has promoted its own environmental certification system. Louis Roederer, producer of Cristal and where Lecaillon has been chef de cave since 1989, is believed to be the province's largest biodynamic vineyard owner. Biodynamic farming now covers 65 of its 240 hectares, or just over a quarter of its
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